taking acid recently emerged in a team discussion of Truth in Aging office – I am a girl from the seventies, after all. Seriously, we were discussing the kind of cosmetics and I realized that there are many active acids bearing the name still have very different effects on the skin.
When I speak of acids, which’m usually refers to alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids, which are plant-derived ingredients that exfoliate in various ways. Another of the most common, such as ferulic acid or hyaluronic not belong to these groups or exfoliating category at all -. Although they do other important things for our skin
As a consumer, it can be very confusing. How do you know what is best for that Take an acid trip and order all.
The alpha hydroxy acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are clinically proven to loosen substances such as glue that holds skin cells together, thus shedding the top layer of damaged skin opaque. The family includes AHA glycolic acid from sugar cane, lactic acid from sour milk, citric acid from citrus fruits, apples malic acid, mandelic acid of bitter almonds, and tartaric acid from grapes and tamarind.
Glycolic is probably the most commonly used in skin care because it is the AHA with the smallest molecule and increased penetration. Glycolic acid deeply exfoliates to remove skin that is dry, thick or dead. relatively large molecular size of mandelic acid makes it one of the least irritating AHA; still does a good job of exfoliating and is said to help prevent dark spots.
hydroxy acids beta
Unlike alpha hydroxy acids, which are water soluble, beta hydroxy acids (BHA) and BHA esters are lipids (or oil ) soluble. This means that not only exfoliate the top layer of the skin, but also penetrate deeply through the skin to remove dead skin cells and excess fat accumulated in the pores.
The main BHA are salicylic acid, willow bark (a natural source SA) and salicylic acid caproyl , the ester sometimes referred as is LHA. While many other exfoliants (ie AHA) often irritate skin, salicylic acid makes opposite to reduce inflammation. This is due to the fact that share an anti-inflammatory similar to aspirin chemical composition, and a known analgesic. Salicylic acid usually works best at a concentration of 1-2 percent and the pH level from 3 to 4.
What are good for
when our skin cells of rotation, migrate to the surface of the skin where they die. However, a dead cell is like a poltergeist that you can hang around causing trouble and why it is so important exfoliation.
AHAs exfoliate the skin surface, accelerates cell renewal and some, such as lactic acid, act as moisturizers. They tend to be better for dull, dry or sun-damaged skin. beta hydroxy acids are deeper and actually remove dead cells hanging around the pores of the skin, leading to inflammation and rashes. BHA are selection for oily or acne prone skin.
Potential side effects
Attention falling acid: Both groups of hydroxy acids increase skin sensitivity to sunlight. I have read that beta hydroxy acids can do so by 50 percent. Therefore, it is prudent to use these products at night or tracking a broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.
The irritation is largely a personal matter. I used to be very nervous about this family of ingredients, but have since discovered that a balanced mixture of acids is well tolerated, while a heavy dose of glycolic acid will be too much for my skin.
reproductive and developmental toxicity have been associated with exposure to salicylic acid and beta hydroxy acids, which are normally contraindicated for pregnant women.
confusingly, you will see other acids in their products skin care. For example, Dr. Dennis Gross , which is well known for its peels hydroxy acid, often makes ferulic acid an ingredient star of his anti -gerentes. When you see this you could be forgiven for thinking that ferulic acid is an exfoliant like AHA or BHA to – but it is not true. Ferulic acid is an important antioxidant, helping to prevent free radicals from damaging your skin. It is a hydroxycinnamic acid found in tea, coffee and red wine.
Other acids that should be falling – but not to be confused with our AHA and BHA friends – they are hyper-hydration of hyaluronic acid and amino acids strengthen the skin (such as arginine and glutamine)
fatty acids are also causing further confusion by appearing as types of alcohol, such as cetearyl alcohol, when they are not alcohol at all. Another type of fatty acid is isostearic acid , which is used as a binder or surfactant in beauty products.